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Underwire bras, the subject of varied opinions, especially when it comes to comfort. Some adore them for their fantastic support and bust-lifting effects, while others find them simply uncomfortable and pinchy. Today, we'll address all questions surrounding the perennially popular yet controversial underwire bra.

The Classic Underwire Bra: A Timeless Choice

The underwire bra, a classic that seems destined to never go out of style. When buying a bra, one likely, consciously or unconsciously, chooses between a model with or without underwire. The actual underwire is a thin plastic or metal arc sewn into a channel, following the sides and bottom of the cup. It starts in the armpit and ends in front between the breasts. Underwires have been in use since the early 20th century and underwent further development in the 1930s. However, they truly gained popularity in the 1950s. The underwire has three tasks.

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The Three Roles of the Underwire

An underwire bra offers several practical advantages. Primarily, it has three functions: lifting, supporting, and shaping the bust in a manner distinct from a wire-free bra. The underwire plays a crucial role in the support a bra provides, taking the weight of the bust and distributing it across the entire arc before spreading it to other parts of the bra. The greater the lateral extension and upward reach between the breasts, the more significant the area contributing to support. Hence, a bra with broad back and side panels, along with a cup extending higher between the cups, offers better support than, for example, a low-cut bra.

"The underwire distributes the weight of the bust evenly across the other parts of the bra."

As the underwire encases the breast, it ensures the bra snugly fits against the chest, dividing the bust. This means the center of the bra lies close to the breastbone, preventing the bra from "hovering" over the breasts and causing them to be compressed into a "uniboob." The separation not only provides individual support to each breast but also visually separates them. The underwire also helps lift the bust, reducing strain on the shoulders.

How Should an Underwire Fit?

The underwire should encircle the entire lower breast without pressing on the breast tissue on the sides or in the center. You should be able to raise your arms without the underwire slipping upward. If this happens, you may be wearing a bra with a too-large underbust measurement.

Additionally, underwires come in different heights. Some extend higher between the breasts, while others end lower, as seen in the so-called plunging bras. Help! My underwire bra is uncomfortable!

A well-fitting underwire bra should never be uncomfortable. If it is, you might be wearing the wrong size or a model unsuitable for your body shape. The most common reason for discomfort in an underwire bra is wearing the wrong size. For example, if it compresses the breasts at the sides, the cup size is too small. If the underwire cuts into the skin and leaves marks, you probably have a bra with too small an underbust measurement.

"The cup should encircle the entire breast, and the underwire should not cut into the breast tissue."

If the end of the underwire presses or if it's uncomfortable between the breasts, try a different model with underwires that end lower or meet at a different angle. Nowadays, there are many different cuts on the market. Depending on the shape of the ribcage and breasts and whether they sit close together or farther apart, a bra can fit differently on different women. Just try out several models. After all, no two breasts are the same.

"Try a minimizer if you have wide breasts."

For example, if you have wide breasts (regardless of cup size), consider trying a minimizer. Contrary to popular belief, a minimizer bra is not only for women with large breasts who want to make their breasts appear flatter. What characterizes a minimizer is that it has a wider arc and shallower cups than a traditional bra.

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"Every breast is different. The same bra sits differently on each woman."

We are all different, and no breast is the same as another. Therefore, the bra size is not always the sole determining factor. How wide or narrow the breasts are and the space between them is just as important.

If, for example, you have narrow breasts or a small space between them, choose a bra where the cup fits well but the underbust measurement is actually a bit tight. To compensate for the slightly tight underbust, you can use a bra extender hooked into the closure instead of going up a size in circumference. Thanks to the bra extender, only the back widens slightly without affecting how the bra sits in front or the fit of the cups.

When Should You Avoid an Underwire Bra?

No body is the same (not to mention personal preferences!), and sometimes, one simply does not like underwire bras. In such cases, listen to yourself and opt for a wire-free model. After all, you know your body best. Even though an underwire bra provides the best lift and support, you shouldn't wear this type of bra if you don't like it. Underwear should be enjoyable, and you should dress the way you want so that you feel comfortable both physically and emotionally in what you wear. Some women immediately take off their bras when they come home from work, school, or a night out in the city, opting for a cozy lounge model. Others wear an underwire bra when they're out and switch to a comfortable lounge model at home. Then there are women like me who wear an underwire bra all day because they find it just as comfortable as a lounge bra, having found the right model and size. However, there are occasions when you should avoid wearing an underwire bra, such as immediately after a breast operation, such as breast reduction, mastectomy, or breast augmentation. In the first months after such an operation, a special postoperative bra, tailored to the type of surgery, is usually worn. For example, after breast augmentation, a compression bra is worn to provide support and shape the breasts.

If you are planning or have recently undergone breast surgery, we recommend consulting your doctor to inquire about how long you should wait before wearing an underwire bra (or a regular bra) again. Women with a pacemaker are also advised to avoid underwire bras.

One Thing That Hasn't Changed...

Just like other clothing, lingerie trends change. Who could forget the sack-shaped Magic Cross bras of the 1970s? Nowadays, there is a greater variety than ever with different designs, materials, and colors. However, one thing has not changed—the underwire bra, and there are no signs that it will lose popularity in the years to come. What types of bras do you like best? With or without underwire or maybe both? We'd love for you to write a few lines in the comments below and tell us why.